We get into a rhythm of our own in France. We go to bed at nine and get up at nine. I sleep incredibly well in the holidays, no deadlines, no work has been brought with me, there’s no housework to think of and I can actually, and totally rest. The photo above is of the campsite, here, I’ve spent many an evening with FM and MW over a bbq and it’s eerie and yet lovely to see it empty. The trees have been cut back, and as ever, the site is immaculate.
Carnac Plage itself is mainly closed. La Poste must have a short round at this time of year. Yesterday we cycled into Carnac itself (as we’re staying in Beaumer) and noticed most of the houses are shut up, shuttered and street after street is deserted. There does though, seem to be no sign of the recession here! Luxury houses are still being thrown up every where, and, even though the place is empty, a house can not be had for less than 400K if you want to be near the sea! We walked around, along the sea front and rode our bikes. Just us.
I then found the ‘people’. Whereas Cornwall will now be swimming with children on half term holiday, Carnac seems to be frequented by older people at this time of year. I found them on the ‘petit train’. I get quite excited when I see it, where ever I used to go, I used to cough up a few euros and take a ride. It was always disappointing, the commentary was always dreadful. If you ever go to Roscoff, you will not believe how bad it is. The driver boasted ‘no tape’ and that he gave the commentary himself. He pointed out the children’s home for delinquent children, and several fields of carrots and to be honest, that was about it. Nonetheless, it’s some times worth it, just to experience how bad it is.
There also seems to be no sign of the recession in the harbour. No fewer dinghies than usual, no fewer aquatic activities and the water sports business is booming in Carnac.
Now food!!!!!! There are so many things that they get right here in France. At home, we buy scallops individually and they can cost 75p each! Here! about ten euros a kilo! the same with oysters! Meat is extraordinarily expensive so, eat fish! Meat at home is cheaper than veggies, whilst fish is expensive, here it’s the other way round. The other thing they seem to have mastered here is fat free cheese and yoghurts with no sugar and deserts with no fat and no sugar. My diet is suffering a bit of a lapse because I’m eating veg and protein every day. I’m also having a glass of wine a day. My exercise is a bit adrift but I am cycling every day and walking a few miles along the sea front every evening.
In total, on Monday, we walked to the shop, home and ate. Walked around Carnac and then came home to sleep on the veranda. In between the eating and sleeping I’ve read Nick Hornby’s ‘About a boy’ and Kathy Reichs’ ‘Death de jour’ and I’m halfway through Carlos Ruiz Zafon’s ‘The angel’s game’. As you can tell, I’m taking ‘doing nothing’ very seriously.